Áo dài

Áo dài (English: /ˈaʊˈdaɪ, ˈɔːˈdaɪ, ˈaʊˈzaɪ/; Vietnamese: [ʔaːw˧˦ zaːj˨˩] (North), [ʔaːw˦˥ jaːj˨˩] (South))[1][2] is a modernized Vietnamese national garment consisting of a long split tunic worn over silk trousers. It can serve as formalwear for both men and women. Áo translates as shirt[3] and dài means "long".[4] The term can also be used to describe any clothing attire that consists of a long tunic, such as nhật bình.

There are inconsistencies in usage of the term áo dài. The currently most common usage is for a Francized design by Nguyễn Cát Tường (whose shop was named "Le Mur"), which is expressly a women's close-fitting design[5] whose shirt is two pieces of cloth sewn together and fastened with buttons. A more specific term for this design would be "áo dài Le Mur".[6][7] Other writers, especially those who claim its "traditionality", use áo dài as a general category of garments for both men and women, and include older designs such as áo ngũ thân (five-piece shirt), áo tứ thân (four-piece shirt), áo tấc (loose shirt), áo đối khâm (parallel-flap robe), áo viên lĩnh (round-collar robe), áo giao lĩnh (cross-collar robe), áo trực lĩnh (straight-collar robe).[8]

The predecessor of the áo dài was derived by the Nguyễn lords in Phú Xuân during 18th century. This outfit was derived from the áo ngũ thân, a five-piece shirt commonly worn in the 19th and early 20th centuries. The áo dài was later made to be form-fitting which was influenced by the French, Nguyễn Cát Tường and other Hanoi artists redesigned the áo dài as a modern shirt in the 1920s and 1930s.[9] The updated look was promoted by the artists and magazines of Tự Lực văn đoàn (Self-Reliant Literary Group) as a national costume for the modern era. In the 1950s, Saigon designers tightened the fit to produce the version worn by Vietnamese women.[9] The áo dài for women was extremely popular in South Vietnam in the 1960s and early 1970s. On Tết and other occasions, Vietnamese men may wear an áo gấm (brocade long shirt), a version of the áo dài made of very thick fabric and with sewed symbols.

The áo dài has traditionally been marketed with a feminine appeal, with "Miss Ao Dai" pageants being popular in Vietnam and with overseas Vietnamese.[10] However, the men version of áo dài or modified áo dài are also worn during weddings or formal occasions. The áo dài is one of the few Vietnamese words that appear in English-language dictionaries.[a] The áo dài can be paired with the nón lá or the khăn vấn.

  1. ^ "Definition of ao dai | Dictionary.com". www.dictionary.com.
  2. ^ "Ao dai definition and meaning | Collins English Dictionary". www.collinsdictionary.com.
  3. ^ "Definition of ao dai in English". September 16, 2013. Archived from the original on September 16, 2013. Retrieved February 12, 2023.
    Áo is derived from a Middle Chinese word (襖) meaning "padded coat". "襖". Han Dian. Retrieved May 20, 2023.
  4. ^ Phan Van Giuong, Tuttle Compact Vietnamese Dictionary: Vietnamese–English English–Vietnamese (2008), p. 76. "dài adj. long, lengthy."
  5. ^ Trần Hậu Yên Thế (December 26, 2023). "Họa sĩ Cát Tường và trang phục áo dài Lemur" [Artist Cát Tường and the Lemur áo dài outfit.]. Tạp chí Người Hà Nội Online.
  6. ^ "Câu chuyện kỳ thú về mối lương duyên của họa sĩ Cát Tường - người sáng tạo ra áo dài Việt Nam hôm nay" [The fascinating story of the destined connection of artist Cát Tường – the creator of today's Vietnamese áo dài.]. Chúng ta. July 20, 2021.
  7. ^ "Chuyện về danh họa Nguyễn Cát Tường, người thiết kế nên chiếc áo dài đầu tiên của Việt Nam" [The story of renowned painter Nguyễn Cát Tường, who designed Vietnam's first áo dài.]. Sàigòneer. February 9, 2022.
  8. ^ "Sự khác biệt về cách may giữa Áo Cổ Đứng Xưa và Áo Dài Tân Thời" [The difference in tailoring between the traditional standing-collar áo and the modern áo dài.]. June 23, 2016.
  9. ^ a b Ellis, Claire (1996). "Ao Dai: The National Costume". Things Asian. Archived from the original on July 5, 2008. Retrieved August 2, 2008.
  10. ^ Lieu (2000), p. 127–151.


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